Zack’s Rating: ★★★★☆ Ease of Travel: ★★½ Wallet Friendly: ★★★★☆ (except the Amalfi Coast)

Hats Worn:

The hat stars of the trip were Stetson’s new line of ball caps — along with other new additions by Pendleton and Ariat — which earned their passports in a lemon grove outside Sorrento with four fresh graduates modeling them. Watch for the shots from that shoot; the setting did not disappoint.

My personal pick: the Stetson Center Dent Fedora. Grade 8 Panama straw, pinch-front crown, snap brim — and I’ll say it: I feel like I nailed it with this one. Breathable in the Campania heat, If you’re headed somewhere hot, this is the hat.

Moon Ridge Reflections:

Almost everything on this trip went exactly to plan (which never happens!). A photoshoot, a senior trip, a family adventure, and a scouting mission for the travel side of Moon Ridge, all rolled into one eleven-day run through the Bay of Naples. Ferries that run once a day. Scooters returned within the hour. A villa booking that fell apart and came back better. Four graduates on a four-pizza-a-day habit. And more good people than we can count — on both sides of the language barrier.

Getting There:

This time we flew American Airlines, and they held up their end of the bargain — on time and a genuinely pleasant experience. The one thing that started out as a disappointment was the food: the most unappetizing-looking mush I have ever seen on a plane. But guess what — both the chicken and the vegetarian dish were actually delicious. In this case, looks were pleasantly deceiving.

We landed in Naples, and that’s where the true fun began. The next step in the voyage was getting from Naples Airport to the ferry port. As a group of seven, we’d originally planned to take the airport bus to the Naples ferry terminal — but what we quickly learned from an eager taxi van driver is that once you’re above about six people, you can negotiate a van fare that works out to roughly the same as everyone’s bus tickets combined. So here’s the math: two to four people, take the €6 bus. More than that, take the convenience of a cab.

From the port, it’s about an hour by ferry to Ischia, and here I have a couple of tips. In the summer, the air conditioning on the ferries can be suspect — almost sauna-esque — and these ferries are fully enclosed. I highly recommend grabbing a seat along the sides and near the middle of the boat. The front has no views and all of the heat.

ISCHIA

Where We Stayed:

Once we arrived on Ischia, we took a cab from the ferry port over to the next town, Casamicciola Terme, and settled into Hotel Casa Di Meglio — a family-run hotel perched on the hillside with panoramic views of the town, Mount Epomeo, and the sea.

Here’s the honest scorecard: it’s a ★★★½ property with a ★★★★½ staff and vibe. We have to give a shout-out to Ruben, our bartender, who made the place special for everyone — what a great young man. I believe his family is involved in running the hotel, and he was outstanding as both host and bartender. The rooftop bar is excellent, the pool was great, and the rooms are typical. Be advised: it’s up a hill. But for the value, this was a great place to stay. Ischia is famous for its thermal waters, and Casa Di Meglio leans in with a large outdoor thermal pool surrounded by Mediterranean gardens, plus a wellness center with an indoor thermal pool, sauna, and Turkish bath.

Where We Ate:

Ristorante Pizzeria Del Corso — ★★★★★. I’ve given out two five-star ratings on this island, and that’s rare for me. This is clearly a family-run business, and it earned a distinction I can’t remember happening more than a couple of times in my life of traveling: we went back two nights in a row. We literally happened upon the place thanks to an out-of-the-blue severe storm — we came running in like drowned rats, and they seated us and treated us like family anyway. Another standout job of service, this time by Fernando. We had everything you can imagine from an Italian standpoint, and every bit of it delivered. A magical place for us, and the owner and his family are true gems.

Gabbiano – Restaurant & Sunset — ★★★★☆. Sunset: Ten Stars. We met a local and said, “take us to a nice restaurant with a great view of the sunset.” This did not disappoint.

Gelato: Bar Gelateria Di Massa — ★★★½☆. Best gelato on the island. The staff? Not great. Go for the gelato anyway.

Where We Drank:

Bar Topless — ★★★★★. No, it’s not what you think. The name belongs to an inside service bar paired with a trendy beach bar it services across the street. This is where we met two of our favorite service people of the entire trip: Emanuela and Pasquale, who kicked things off for the boys in absolutely fantastic style. At least one part of our group made it back every single night. They introduced us to Lemon Schweppes — and how that is not a thing in the USA is incredible to me. We’re bringing it back. The owner bought the boys a round or two, and on the last day I was proud to watch them pay their respects with a heartfelt handshake and goodbye.

Blanco Club — ★★★¾☆. I can’t give you a firsthand report on this one. The boys, however, can: it starts up late and it was a lot of fun. Take that for what it’s worth from four recent graduates on the loose in Italy.

What We Explored:

Giardini Poseidon Terme (Poseidon Thermal Gardens) — ★★★★☆. This is the largest thermal park on the island: 20-plus pools spread across terraced gardens overlooking Citara Bay, with water temperatures running from 28°C to 40°C, The kids had a blast working their way through the different baths. It reminded me of an Italian Pagosa Springs — which I personally love. If you’re on Ischia, everyone needs to do this once.

Poseidon tips: Bathing caps are mandatory — they’ll sell you one on-site for a couple euros, but don’t let it catch you off guard. Full-day tickets run about €45, and note for families: kids under 11 aren’t allowed in the thermal pools, only the sea-water pools and beach.

Ischia Travel Tips:

Scooters: don’t even think about it. We rented them, nearly killed ourselves — or got killed — and had them turned back in within the hour. Ischia’s roads are their own brand of chaos, and here’s the kicker: they were only the warm-up for what we’d encounter on the Amalfi Coast and in Naples.

Learn the bus system. Cabs on Ischia are expensive, and the island’s buses will get you most places for a few euros. A little upfront confusion at the bus stop pays for itself quickly.

PRAIANO / POSITANO — THE AMALFI COAST

Getting There:

We took the ferry from Ischia toward the Amalfi Coast — and be advised: the direct ferry only runs once a day (on most days) sometimes later in the afternoon. Rather than burn a whole day waiting around for a 5:00 boat (and remember our earlier tip about the heat on those enclosed ferries), we created our own route back through Naples and connected from there. The schedules change often, so check them close to your travel date and be ready to improvise. One more thing: when taking a ferry out of Naples, buy your tickets in advance — they can and do sell out.

We landed at Positano, then took a cab to Praiano — $80 for four miles. Welcome to the coast.

About the Destination:

The Amalfi Coast is where the Scam-the-Americans hustle began for us. On Ischia, we were some of the few Americans around — and that was great. Positano is where the hustle started, and it did not let up for the rest of the trip. Let me be clear: the beauty of the Amalfi Coast is breathtaking. But the money grab has gotten a little out of hand for what you get, and at times it feels like a game whose object is capturing American dollars.

The Amalfi Coast is straight-up cliff. The towns are built directly into the rock face, which means one thing your legs will never forget: literally thousands of steps. Every view is earned. And I don’t want to sugarcoat any of this: you need to be in shape and have strong legs — long legs help too. Crawford did amazing, but on multiple occasions I felt terrible watching her march up and down, over and over again. If anyone in your group has mobility issues or little legs, plan around it — this coast does not meet you halfway.

Praiano itself is less heralded than Positano or Amalfi, but it’s a great little village sitting right between the two. Positano is the most touristy — and yes, beautiful — but as mentioned above, everywhere on this coast is playing the game. We loved the village of Praiano and its little stores, but here’s the cost reality in one stat: pizzas went from $8 on Ischia to $22 in Praiano and Positano, with very few hidden gems or value plays like the boys were hunting for... and on about a four-pizza-a-day habit, that added up quick on their fixed budget.

The Tipping Talk:

Here’s something nobody tells you before you go. Servers in Italy — and especially on the Amalfi Coast — have suddenly taken to asking for tips before you’ve even finished the meal. What they’re less than honest about is that a service charge is already included in your bill. So here’s my tip and my advice: if you get good service, tip a couple of euros for the good service. Not more. Your fellow European travelers would absolutely not do any kind of percentage — and neither should you. They might try and make you feel guilty, but thats preying on your kind American heart, as they know they will never see you again.

Where We Stayed:

Palazzo Rocco ★★★★★. The silver lining of a whole booking saga (more on that in the travel tips below)...We ended up in an amazing villa in Praiano with a great host, Luca. Sometimes the cancellation is the best thing that happens to your trip. I’m keeping this one a little close to the vest — but contact me if you want help setting up this incredible villa. It’s the real deal.

Where We Ate:

Ristorante Costa Diva — ★★★¾☆. Family-owned, set in the middle of a massive lemon grove on the cliffside of Praiano, with terraces looking straight out over the sea. You eat under the lemon pergolas and the vegetables come from their own garden. The setting is doing a lot of the work here — worth it for the atmosphere.

What We Explored:

La Masseria (Sorrento) — ★★★½☆. With help from Luca at our villa, we built our own tour with two major stops. The first was a sustainable family farm near Sorrento called La Masseria — a farm and collective set up to supply lemons to the towns of northern Italy. We capped the visit with a “family” meal prepared by the mother of the house, shared with about thirty other visitors. And that’s the honest catch: while I thought it was genuinely neat, it was a little overpriced and gave off more “excursion” vibe than the small, intimate experience we’d hoped for. Still fun — just know what you’re buying.

Pompeii — ★★★★★. And then… wow. Unbelievable. Yes, it can be crowded, and yes, the summer heat can be almost unbearable — but it is so amazing. My recommendation: suck it up and go later in the afternoon, when the cruise-ship crowds have died down. This is truly one of the most incredible marvels I have ever seen. The boys were genuinely into the history, and Crawford was interested too — though once again, the grounds are HUGE and not perfectly suited for the short-legged ones. I would absolutely go back and spend more time there.

NAPLES

About the Destination:

Naples is chaos. But it’s a beautiful chaos. The closest cities on earth I can compare it to are Rio and New Orleans — it’s missing the music vibe of those two, but as far as raw human energy, I’ve not been many places like it. Much of the city feels more dirty than dangerous, and the people are out — in the streets, in the piazzas, not shut away in their apartments. Life happens in public here.

The Spanish Quarter is set on a steep grade and old as dirt, but the drinks are cheap and the Naples energy runs strong through it. You’ll want to watch yourself here — but that’s part of the deal, and it’s more of that human electricity you can’t find many other places. The shopping in Naples is great, the prices were the best I’ve seen and the style clearly bleeds down from Milan.

Where We Stayed:

For our final stop, we booked the De Armida VIP Flat — essentially a VRBO-style apartment booked through Booking.com in the Chiaia district. The verdict: ★★★½ accommodations, ★★★★★ host service. And here’s an important note: Chiaia is the best place to stay in Naples, but to find a decent deal you need to book early. Your perfect landmark is the Gucci store or the Louis Vuitton store. And don’t worry — this isn’t NYC. You can still find an affordable place near them. From there, you can walk into the madness or out of it, whichever the day calls for.

Where We Ate:

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele — ★★★★☆. Napoli is, well, the birthplace of pizza. We did the obligatory Da Michele — and for $30 got two pizzas, two beers, and a Coke. It was all the rage. Read that again after what the Amalfi Coast charged us: thirty dollars, fed the table.

We waited about 40 minutes, and yes, it’s crazy outside. But here’s the secret: grab your number, walk about 30 yards directly across the street to the little convenience-store-looking bar, sit down, and order an Aperol Spritz. By the time you finish your spritz, you’ll be in.

Frank Malone Pub & Brewstore — ★★★★☆. Up by the castle in Vomero, this is an awesome English pub — the only one we saw in Naples. Our server Davide absolutely made the place. It’s a very interesting Italian take on an English pub menu — but hey, a hamburger with a slab of fresh mozzarella is technically a cheeseburger. And let’s be honest: ten days into an Italian food run, we needed one, and Frank Malone’s filled the bill. Highly recommended — and tell Davide we said hi.

Where We Drank:

Freak — ★★★★☆. Tucked into the baretti, the maze of little bars around Via Cavallerizza and Vico Belledonne just off Piazza dei Martiri. The boys loved it and went back multiple nights — high praise from a crew that had options. This whole pocket of Chiaia is a great area: at night the bars spill into the streets and the neighborhood becomes one big open-air hangout, that Naples out-of-the-apartment energy at full strength.

Terrace bar across from the exit at Castel Sant’Elmo — ★★★★½. I cant remember the name and neither can Google apparently. You cant miss it. For the best view and an evening drink in Naples, take the funicular up to Castel Sant’Elmo. Directly across from the castle exit is a terrace bar that looks out over the entire city with Vesuvius in the background. This is a wow place. One thing to know: they close about an hour after the castle does, so make sure you get in. The picture spot of the whole trip — a huge highlight.

The Perfect Ending: Ammènne

Ammènne Karaoke Bar ★★★★★ (Dive Bar) — Via San Sebastiano, near Piazza Dante. Right by the Dante metro stop sits the university square, where Naples’ student energy gathers at night. A short walk away on Via San Sebastiano is Ammènne — and the definition of a dive bar for karaoke, and one of the highlights of the entire trip. Their own tagline says it best: “a place where music isn’t listened to… it’s lived.” The owner was an absolute gem. We did not speak the same language, but we had no trouble communicating.

The boys sang their hearts out — and so did the parents. A Dane and a Dutchman joined in to help us serenade Naples, and the owner sent us on our way with a small shot. It was the perfect end to an amazing trip, and the cherry on top of everything that came before it.

Additional Notes & Travel Tips:

Get on Italian time. Everything closes from about 4:00 to 7:00 PM, and dinner doesn’t even start until after 8:00. Most important of all: if nightlife is on your agenda, nobody’s even thinking about it until after midnight. Adjust your body clock and get your timing right, or you’ll spend half the trip standing alone in empty bars.

Europe is getting hotter. It just is. Maybe it’s cyclical, maybe it’s humans — I don’t really care. I just know that if you go in the summer, be prepared to be hot. Don’t let it hold you back. Get out and travel — but think thick, warm air, and most of all, air conditioning that isn’t keeping up. If you need 65-degree cold air to sleep, unless you’re in a five-star hotel paying thousands a night, you’re probably not getting it anywhere decent. Remember: most of these places were built hundreds if not thousands of years ago, and everything is retrofitted. The typical air conditioners struggle — and so do the clothes washers and dryers. Once again, this is a minor thing to be mentally prepared for, not a reason not to go.

Italy is a cash country. They hate credit cards. They’ll upcharge you for using one, and then the card machine will try to hit you again by offering to convert the charge to dollars. Carry cash and you’ll skip the whole dance.

ALWAYS decline the conversion. Pay in euros. When any card machine or ATM offers to charge you in dollars instead of euros, decline it — every single time. Especially at ATMs, where the conversion markup can run as high as 20%. Your bank will convert the currency for you automatically at a far better rate. And here’s what trips people up: declining the conversion feels like you’re canceling the whole transaction. You are not. You’re just declining the rip-off. Hit decline with confidence and carry on.

The VRBO/Airbnb reality check. After you book, follow up with your host at six weeks out, then three, then two. There is definitely a game being played where hosts lock you in early, and if they later get a better rate or realize they mispriced the market, they can and will cancel on you. We learned this one firsthand. This applies any time you’re front-running a big event (Italian Summer, Taylor Swift) or you’ve scored what feels like a great deal on a short-term rental. The host may not have realized what they had — and they can get out of it. Some will honor their deals. Some will not. Now, credit where it’s due: I was genuinely impressed with VRBO’s customer service. They made the situation right — after five hours on the phone. Which brings me to the real tip: this is another reason to use a travel expert. I happen to know a good one. Wink.

Final Thoughts:

Nothing makes you more proud or fulfilled in life than your family — and as we watch our parents and our kids get older, we have to look at who we became and what our kids will become. Watching my son take his first trip as an adult let me sit back and look at the man he has become. He’ll still grow into full-blown adulthood through these university years, but from a travel standpoint at least, he’s a chip off the ol’ block.

I’m not a cliché guy — though the end of this blog seems to be full of them — so here’s the final one I’ll use: you are the company you keep. You can tell a lot about a person by their friends, and Noah’s friends proved it. They are fun, kind, polite, and gracious. I was a proud dad many times over, looking at all five of them as my sons on this trip.

And no, that’s not a typo. The fifth friend is someone I haven’t mentioned until now: Jakob, a wonderful German lad who spent a year in Fayetteville as an exchange student. He flew down for the back half of the voyage, and although these boys were raised continents apart, you can tell that good finds good, no matter where it comes from. He was every bit the joy the rest of them were. Every one of their parents should be proud.

And finally — Natalie and Crawford. The true moms of the trip. I can’t even begin to describe how much their laughter and their practicality kept us grounded.

If this post has you thinking your next vacation should have fewer tour buses and more places like Ammènne — reach out. We plan trips the way we take them: real tips, real people, and nothing straight out of a guidebook.

Adventure with us, one destination at a time. For more information, email zack@moonridgecompany.com.